10 Gulf Coast Hotels Facing the Sunset

Sanibel runs east to west. Almost every barrier island on the American Atlantic and Gulf coasts runs north to south, parallel to the shore; Sanibel sits crossways, and the effect is that it works as a scoop. Shells carried north on the currents from the Caribbean hit the island broadside and pile up on the beach instead of passing by.

The result is one of the best shelling beaches in the world and a posture named after it — the Sanibel stoop, which is what you see everyone doing at low tide.

An honest note on the recovery

In September 2022 Hurricane Ian made landfall near Fort Myers as a category four storm. The causeway to Sanibel was severed in several places, a large share of the island's buildings were destroyed or gutted, and the damage across Lee County was among the worst in Florida's history.

The causeway was rebuilt within weeks and the island has come a long way. But recovery has been uneven: some resorts reopened in stages, some are still rebuilding, and one or two have not come back at all. Confirm the current status of anything on Sanibel or Captiva directly before booking, because published information has lagged reality repeatedly since 2022.

Naples and Marco Island, south, were also hit but less severely and are substantially back.

The coast

Naples is the polished end: a downtown of Fifth Avenue South and Third Street South with more golf holes per head than anywhere in the country, a beach that runs unbroken for kilometres, and a pier that has been rebuilt after storms more than once.

Marco Island, south, is the largest of the Ten Thousand Islands and the gateway to the mangrove maze beyond it.

Sanibel and Captiva, north, are the shelling islands, with a wildlife refuge covering more than half of Sanibel.

The Everglades, east, start within an hour and can be reached by airboat from Everglades City or on foot in Big Cypress.

The whole coast faces west, which means the sun goes down over the water every evening and the beaches fill at dusk rather than noon.

The ten below run north to south.

Sanibel and Captiva

The shelling islands.

South Seas Island Resort occupies a large resort estate on Captiva with several pools, a marina and beaches on both the Gulf and the bay.

Sundial Beach Resort & Spa sits on Sanibel's Gulf shore with a spa, tennis and a beach that produces the shelling the island is known for.

Tween Waters Island Resort occupies a position on Captiva with cottages on both sides of the road, a pool and a long-standing family operation.

Naples

The polished end.

The Ritz-Carlton, Naples occupies a beachfront position with a spa, several restaurants and a level of service that is the benchmark on this coast.

LaPlaya Beach & Golf Resort sits on the beach at Vanderbilt with a golf course, a spa and full family facilities.

Naples Grande Beach Resort occupies a large beachfront site with several pools, a private beach and a good children's programme.

Inn on Fifth sits in the middle of Fifth Avenue South with a rooftop, a spa and every restaurant in town outside the door.

Edgewater Beach Hotel occupies a beachfront building in Naples with suites, a pool and the shops of Third Street nearby.

Marco Island

South, at the edge of the Ten Thousand Islands.

JW Marriott Marco Island Beach Resort occupies a large beachfront estate with golf, several pools and a children's programme, on the island's main beach.

Marco Beach Ocean Resort sits on the same beach as an all-suite property with a rooftop restaurant and a quieter tone.

What we have left off

The condominium rentals along the Naples and Marco beachfronts are excluded, and on this coast they represent a very large share of the accommodation, particularly for the winter season. They are apartments rather than hotels.

What to do

Shell at low tide on Sanibel, ideally after a storm, and note that collecting live shells is illegal — check whether anything is still in it.

Go into the Everglades. Airboats from Everglades City cover the mangrove edge; the Big Cypress boardwalks and the Fakahatchee Strand are quieter and better for wildlife.

Kayak the Ten Thousand Islands from Marco, which is mangrove maze rather than open water and needs a guide or a good chart.

Watch the sunset, which is the local ritual, and look for the green flash that people on this coast talk about and occasionally see.

Eat stone crab in season, from mid-October to early May. The claw is taken and the crab returned to the water to regrow it, which is why the season is fixed.

Practical notes

Fort Myers and Naples both have airports; Miami is two hours east across Alligator Alley.

December to April is the season and the peak, with the best weather and the highest rates. Summer is hot, humid and brings afternoon storms. Hurricane season runs June to November with the peak from August to October.

Check hotel operating status on Sanibel and Captiva directly. This coast has been rebuilding since 2022.

Why does Sanibel have so many shells?

The island runs east to west rather than north to south, so it catches shells carried up on the currents instead of letting them pass.

Has the coast recovered from Ian?

Substantially but unevenly, and some Sanibel properties are still rebuilding. Confirm directly before booking.

When is stone crab season?

Mid-October to early May. The claw is harvested and the crab returned to regrow it.

How many nights?

Six. Four in Naples or Marco with a day on Sanibel and a day in the Everglades.

If you only book one

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