The Dead Sea shore sits about 430 metres below sea level, which makes it the lowest exposed land on earth. The air pressure at that depth filters ultraviolet light, the water is roughly ten times saltier than the ocean, and floating in it is genuinely involuntary — you cannot sink, and getting upright again takes a moment of thought.
Petra is two hours south and 1,000 metres higher, in sandstone mountains at around 900 metres. Between the two you climb a kilometre of elevation, and the temperature drops accordingly.
An honest note about the water
The Dead Sea is shrinking. The Jordan river that fed it is largely diverted for agriculture and industry, the level has been falling for decades, and the shoreline has retreated substantially in living memory. Several resorts that were built on the water now run shuttles or long walkways down to it.
That is worth knowing when you book: check how far the hotel's beach access actually is, because the answer varies and it changes.
The shape of a Jordan trip
The country is small and the sites are strung along one route.
Amman in the north is the capital, built on hills, with the Roman theatre, the citadel and a restaurant scene that is much better than its reputation.
The Dead Sea is an hour southwest of Amman, at the lowest point.
Petra, three hours south of Amman, is the Nabataean city carved into rose sandstone. The approach through the Siq — a 1.2-kilometre crack in the rock, in places only a few metres wide — opening onto the Treasury is the single best moment in Middle Eastern travel.
Wadi Rum, two hours further south, is the desert of sandstone and granite where the Bedouin camps are.
Aqaba, on the Red Sea at the southern tip, has the diving.
The nine below are grouped by place.
Petra
At the gate, in Wadi Musa.
Mövenpick Resort Petra sits directly at the entrance to the site, closer than anything else, which means walking to the Siq at opening before the coaches from Amman arrive. It has a Levantine-style interior and a rooftop restaurant.
Mövenpick Resort Petra
Dead Sea shore · 5★ · $$$
A stone village layout with direct beach access
Check availabilityPetra Marriott Hotel occupies a hillside position above Wadi Musa with a pool, a spa and views across the valley toward the site.
Petra Marriott Hotel
Above Wadi Musa · 5★ · $$
Hillside pool and spa with valley views
Check availabilityThe Old Village Hotel & Resort sits outside the town in a set of restored stone village buildings with a pool, a spa and a quieter setting than the main road hotels.
The Old Village Hotel & Resort
Outside Wadi Musa · 4★ · $$
Restored stone village buildings away from the main road
Check availabilityThe Dead Sea
An hour from Amman, at the lowest point on earth.
Kempinski Hotel Aqaba occupies a large site on the shore with nine pools, a very large spa using Dead Sea minerals and gardens stepping down to the water. It is the most complete resort on the Jordanian shore.
Kempinski Hotel Aqaba
Dead Sea shore · 5★ · $$$
Nine pools and gardens stepping down to the water
Check availabilityMövenpick Resort Petra sits on the shore in a village-style layout of stone buildings with several pools, a spa and direct beach access.
HILTON WADi RUM occupies a beachfront position with pools terraced down the slope, a spa and full family facilities.
Amman
The capital, in the north.
Four Seasons Hotel Amman occupies a tower in the western hills with a spa, a pool and the most polished service in Jordan. It is the practical base for the north.
Four Seasons Hotel Amman
Western Amman · 5★ · $$$
The most polished service in the country
Check availabilityThe St. Regis Amman sits in Abdali with a large spa, several restaurants and the most contemporary rooms in the city.
The St. Regis Amman
Abdali, Amman · 5★ · $$$
Large spa and the most contemporary rooms in the city
Check availabilityFairmont Amman occupies a position in the Fifth Circle area with a rooftop pool, a good restaurant and rates below the two above.
Fairmont Amman
Fifth Circle, Amman · 5★ · $$
Rooftop pool at a lower rate than its neighbours
Check availabilityWhat we have left off
The Wadi Rum desert camps are excluded, and a night in the desert under that sky is one of the best things in Jordan. They are tented camps, however well appointed, and this is a hotel guide. Do it as a night out from Petra or Aqaba.
What to do
Get to Petra at opening, before eight. The Siq is at its best empty, and the walk through it takes twenty minutes before the Treasury appears. The site is enormous: the Monastery is a further 800 steps up and takes an hour each way, and most people underestimate the walking entirely.
Consider Petra by Night, when the Siq is lit by candles on certain evenings. It is atmospheric and it is also crowded and quiet-ish rather than silent; opinions vary.
Float in the Dead Sea, briefly. Twenty minutes is plenty, do not shave beforehand, and keep the water away from your eyes.
See Jerash, north of Amman, which is among the best-preserved Roman provincial cities anywhere and receives a fraction of Petra's visitors.
Eat mansaf, the national dish of lamb in fermented yoghurt, and knafeh in Amman, which is the best in the region.
Practical notes
Queen Alia airport is 45 minutes from Amman and about three hours from Petra. The Jordan Pass, bought before arrival, covers the visa fee and entry to Petra and most sites, and is worth it for almost every itinerary.
March to May and September to November are ideal. Summer at the Dead Sea and in Wadi Rum regularly exceeds 40 degrees. Winter is cold at Petra's altitude and can bring snow.
Petra involves a great deal of walking on uneven ground. Proper shoes matter more here than almost anywhere.
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Questions people actually ask
How long do you need at Petra?
Two days. One covers the Siq, the Treasury and the main street; the second gets you the Monastery and the High Place of Sacrifice.
Is the Dead Sea still worth it?
Yes, and it is shrinking. Check how far the hotel's actual water access is before booking.
Should you stay in Wadi Rum?
The camps are the way to do it and they are tents. A night there between Petra and Aqaba is worth building in.
How many nights?
Six. Two at Petra, one or two at the Dead Sea, one in Amman and one in the desert.
If you only book one
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